Indian Shoe Bazaar - Fairs: 93rd GDS

93rd GDS shoe fashion trends for autumn/winter 2002/2003:
Extremes are out, and less is more!

Over-the-top is out, and fashion is toeing the line! New shoes for next winter play safe, stressing comfort and quality, not flash and fuss. But that does not spell frumpy. The interplay of different trends ensures a season with more variety than most.

Comfort. This is a rare occasion when designers are being kind to feet, and surprisingly wearer-friendly. Shoes that strut their stuff on dizzy-height stilettos have taken a tumble. Men, and women, too, will now step out with down-to-earth heels and cushioned interiors, with rubber and crepe soles to add extra bounce. Even most leather-soled city shoes like pumps and walkers boast a hidden sliver of rubber underfoot, in case of a downpour or drizzle.

Variety. There will be no overarching trend next winter. Instead, a host of different looks will vie for honours. Pointed toes still feature, and square, round and even asymmetrical shapes are staging a comeback. Curvy Sabrina heels will line up with mannish Cubans and countrified crepe soles. Boots will still be big news. The latest favorites will be nostalgic and laced, relaxed wrangler-style or elegant equestrian, but they're challenged by Chelseas, walkers and moccasins. Only the colours have pared the palette. Of course, black is back, browns abound, and a few reds and greens spark up the spectrum.

High-caliber. Materials, from soft leather through finest fabrics to functional high-tech variations, plus workmanship, are the very best. Discreet trimmings, especially buckles, bobbles and piping, will replace showy detailing to accent the thoroughbred look. But despite the top quality, prices haven't risen - some have even seen quite a sharp drop.

Women's shoes

Romantic folk
A touch of Moulin Rouge, a hint of Zhivago's Russia, a breath of Belle Époque - this opulent fashion theme ushers pretty, feminine shoes to complement the romantic clothes. Last shapes are more round than pointed, and heels for boots high and low, pumps and ballerinas alike are sturdy and slightly curved.

The latest footwear frontrunner here is the close-fitting laced boot cut to shape the calf - the sexy look sported by Nicole Kidman in the film "Moulin Rouge". All the romantic styles owe much to their decorative detailing. Lacings and bows, diamond quilting, outline piping and fur trimmings all sum up the Russian look, while lace, brocade, velvet and embossed leather hark back to the Belle Époque. The colours are just as alluring: Even deep reds, aubergines and greens figure alongside black and brown.

Dandy
Today's shoes to escort the definitive cool and dandy pants suits are slim, flat and severe. Masculine lace-ups - even known as "dandies" - make the perfect partner, but flat low boots, tastefully trimmed walkers, and even plain ballerinas also go well. What they all must have are flat block heels and narrow to pointed lasts. Shoes should still peek out, even beneath the wide, and again extra-long trousers.

The main materials are top-quality nappa and suède, and black heads the colour chart. Small buckles, medallion punching and piping point up the essentially pared-down look.

Pioneer
The Wild West is calling, in the shape of the covered wagons of the early settlers. Rough and tough outerwear denims and cords meet their match in heavy-duty footwear. Cowboy boots are a must. Slim lasts with a slightly extended toe, slanted block heel and antique leather all blaze the trail. Down-to-earth trims including surface seaming, patched leather and fringes pack even more of a punch. Good old desert boots, dressed for the west in suède, oiled or waxed leather, stamp more of an up-country stance. Biker boots with thick profiled soles and flaunting big silver buckles and rivets are still top gear.

Riding
Riding boots are back in the saddle as the made-to-measure accessory for the new horse & hound motif. Flat heels, straight legs, narrow adjustable straps, subtle buckles, fine-grain leather and burnished browns (including two-tones) hallmark this sport-of-kings styling, which short-cuts the trousers below. Boots rise and fall between knee and ankle. But with either sleek leather or gripping crepe and profiles underfoot, they all echo the green fields at their most blue-blooded. Even moccasins and walkers follow the bridle path. Buckles, bobbles, bars and binding give the final grooming.

Men's shoes
In the upcoming season, gentlemen will still prefer a blend of sporty casuals on the one foot and elegant classics on the other.

Easy sneakers, moccasins, casuals, biker and desert boots will all round out up front to give toe space to spare, and always get to grips with a firm but flexible bottom line. Profile soles are coming back to join their sporty crepe counterparts. Eye-catching waxed-look and antique leathers lend a rural touch. Cowboy and Chelsea boots also take men way out west.

City shoes are much more subdued. Classic lace-ups, college styles and downtown low boots sport a slim silhouette with decorative welt stitching. Visible seams, punching and buckle details add a fashion flourish.